Cartier, 18k Yellow Gold Bracelet / Watch
Jewellery Sector: Fine & High Jewellery
Curated By: Josephine Odet
Main Material: Yellow gold
Condition Report: Very good condition
Hidden beauty - this striking 1940s bracelet watch of 18k yellow gold is designed as a series of articulated “gas-hose” links, to a concealed dial at the centre, signed Cartier, and concealed clasp.
Cartier is one of a small number of centennial Maisons which has created era-defining jewellery and watches. Cartier claimed its place in the history books of horology with the Santos de Cartier (launched in 1911 but inspired by a watch on a leather strap, which Louis Cartier created in 1904 for his friend the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont), The Tortue (1912), The Bagnoire (1912), The Tank (1917), The Pasha (1932), The Crash (1967) and The Ballon Bleu (2007).
With so many recognisable and iconic designs, it’s always interesting to find a piece where Cartier has prioritised the jewel over the watch, as seen in this mid-century bracelet. Bold, eye-catching and extremely chic, the watch face on this articulated, 18k yellow gold bracelet lies hidden under a hinged pair of gas pipe links. Stylistically, strong gold bracelets were ‘de rigueur’ across Europe and the USA in the 1940s and 1950s - and with many women taking their jewellery from day to night, hidden watch faces gained popularity. Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-Francois Cartier and the maison grew exponentially in the early 20th-century under the direction of Louis Cartier in Paris, Pierre Cartier in New York and Jacques Cartier in London.
Cartier is synonymous with creativity, celebrity and royalty. In fact, King Edward VII of the United Kingdom referred to Cartier as the ‘jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers’. This dial of this bracelet watch is signed Cartier and the movement is signed European Watch and Clock Co. There are maker’s marks, UK hallmarks (later), Swiss assay marks and the piece is numbered 552491 5211. A similar design from 1937 can be found in the exhibition catalogue 'The Art of Cartier', Musée du Petit Palais (October 1989- January 1990) pg 160, item number 494. Please note that at the time of cataloguing, the movement for this watch was not running. Omneque and its vendors do not guarantee the future working of the movement.
Materials & Features
Metal: 18k Yellow Gold (stamped 750, maker's marks EJ, signed Cartier )
Measurements: Length 170mm x Width 15mm, Depth 10mm
Origin: Paris, Switzerland
Condition Report: Very good condition, movement is not working
Seller ID: FFFJ
Item Location: London, United Kingdom
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