The following journey is one a client took with one of our curators and jewellery specialist Josephine Odet, to create her own personal – and beautiful – ring. Here, we map out the stages of her journey with us.
The client is looking for a loose emerald, weighing approximately 2 carats. The cut? An octagonal, step-cut emerald. Ideally, it would have to have minor clarity enhancement, be Zambian or Colombian. The client expresses a desire to have a relatively “clean” stone, with small inclusions. (The price range is defined, but we will be keeping that confidential.)
Step 1: What is Found
Five emeralds are sourced, ranging in size from 1.50 carats to 3.00 carats. The client requests to see a 1.73-carat stone and a 2.98-carat stone.
Step 2: First Sight
Appointments are made for the first hand viewing.
The two stones that were chosen and taken for the first viewing by the client
Step 3: The Choice
Having seen both stones up close and consulting with Josephine on the merits of each emerald, the client selects the GIA-certificated 1.73-carat emerald, Zambian, with excellent clarity and, as requested, minor clarity enhancement.
Step 4: Design Beginnings
While the hunt for the stone can be exciting enough, this is the point when possibilities start to become reality. It’s the stage when our client requests advice on mounting the emerald that she has chosen. Her brief is for a fine, halo-style setting – set with brilliant-cut diamonds in the surround and in the shoulders. Diamonds and emeralds make wonderful companions in pieces of jewellery, always complementing and enhancing each other.
Step 5: Bespoke Designs on the Page
Omnēque works with several talented jewellers and workshops, and one is chosen to suit this particular project. Three bespoke designs (to scale) are realised in gouache, each slightly different. Design 1: a double halo with pavé-set diamond surround and shoulders, and millegrain edges. Design 2: is a classic halo with pavé-set diamond surround and shoulders. Design 3: a single halo with pavé-set diamond surround and shoulders, and millegrain edges. For each, the mount is platinum; band width of 2mm. The diamonds: 1.6mm-1.8mm (with a total weight of 0.68 carats).
Three bespoke designs are realised in gouache, each slightly different. From left: a double halo, a classic halo, and a single halo but with millegrain edges
Step 6: The Decision
It takes our client only 24 hours to choose the design she loves. This is Design No. 2. With that decided, we can now quote for the design, and we’re all ready for the next stage in the journey.
Step 7: The Make
With everything agreed (design, price, schedule) the emerald is taken to the atelier where the hand-made mount is created. The progress of the mount is checked, and then it's sent for setting and polishing. The ring is now complete. The making and setting of the ring took six weeks.
The finished ring where it belongs – with the client
Step 8: All the Finishing Touches
To complete the process, the ring is professionally photographed and a 360-video made. The ring is then hand-delivered to the client with its GIA gemmological report, photographs and videos. The fit? Perfect. The joy? Immeasurable.