A term to describe jewels that do not bear an inscription of their designer/maker's signature or initials, in contrast to a 'signed' jewel. The practice of signing jewels, which is separate from hallmarking, really took off in the 20th century as leading designers, makers and retailers wanted to be clearly associated with their jewels. Most antique jewels (over 100 years old) will, therefore, be unsigned, but their style, condition and hallmarks (if assayed for their precious metal content) can give you great insights as to who made them and when.
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